But the “clean” diet that Younger was selling as the route to health was making its creator sick. Far from being super-healthy, she was suffering from a serious eating disorder: orthorexia, an obsession with consuming only foods that are pure and perfect. Younger’s raw vegan diet had caused her periods to stop and given her skin an orange tinge from all the sweet potato and carrots she consumed (the only carbohydrates she permitted herself). Eventually, she sought psychological help, and began to slowly widen the repertoire of foods she would allow herself to eat, starting with fish. She recognised that the problem was not her veganism, per se, but the particularly rigid and restrictive diet regime she had imposed on herself.
Although this gleeful trashing of foodie shibboleths is engaging – I’d like to read the Angry Chef on organics – the book reads as if it was assembled in a hurry, and the sweary shtick that is so bracing in the blog becomes rather wearing here. Warner keeps telling us how cross he is, but his research, analysis and humour make his points far more eloquently. Yet this remains a book that will allow you to enjoy food with less guilt; it might even save lives.